- Fermentation bucket
- Tap
- Airlock
- Bottles
- Bottle capper (if using crown cap glass bottles)
- Gloves
- Dish brush
- Notebook
- Hose or jugs for moving water around
- Hygrometer (measures dissolved sugar level)
- Measuring cylinder (~100 mL, needs to be large enough to fit hygrometer)
- Thermometer
- Heat mat
- Bottling cane (connects to tap, fills bottles from the bottom)
- Second brew bucket
- Bottle brush (not required if you clean your bottles immediately as you drink from them)
- Brewing detergent (this helps with washing, not sterilising)
- Equipment steriliser: no-rinse or sodium metabisulfite
- Campden tablets (these remove Chlorine from the tap water)
- Malt can/pouch
- Plus either: brew enhancer, spray-malt or a second malt can/pouch
- Hops: amount depends on beer style, but I like to do 100-200g
- For bottling:
- Priming sugar (usually dextrose)
- Bottle steriliser
- Enough bottles for ~21 litres
- Bottle caps
Flavour profiles for most of the hops available at Binn Inn:
- Dual purpose hops:
- Dr Rudi: resin, pine, and lemongrass
- Falconer's Light: tropical, floral, lemon and grapefruit characteristics
- Green Bullet: spicy, dried fruit characters
- Motueka: fresh crushed citrus, "Mojito" lime character, lively lemon and lime
- Nelson Sauvin: fruitiness with fresh crushed gooseberry and grape
- Pacific Jade: fresh citrus and complex spice characters
- Rakau: stone fruit and fig characteristics
- Sticklebract: citrus and pine
- Waimea: pine and citrus characters; intense tangelo
- Wakatu: restrained floral notes and freshly zested lime
- Finishing hops:
- Fuggle: delicate and pleasant mint, grass and floral tones
- Pacifica: citrus "orange zest" marmalade
- Saaz (Czech): pleasant earthy, herbal and floral overtones
- Styrian Goldings: spice with a earthy/sweet edge
- Bittering hops:
- Pacific Gem: spicy black pepper and berry fruit aroma
See
Home Brew Stuff's hop profiles page for more detailed flavour notes and other varieties
- Optional: start boiling some of the hops (if you want bittering)
- Start warming malt can/pouch with boiling water (place it in a bowl/pot and pour boiling water over the top, then leave it sitting in the hot water)
- Clean and sterilise:
- Work area
- Fermenter, airlock and tap
- Brewing spoon
- Hose/jugs for transferring water
- Small bowl for starting the yeast, and plate or something as a cover
- Put a small amount of lukewarm water in the bowl, sprinkle the yeast on top and cover
- Check malt can for ideal starting temperature, then calculate the amount of boiling water to add:
You will require Litres of boiling water.
- Fill fermenter with water (mix of cold and boiling as calculated above, be careful with the last few litres). During the fill, stir continuously and add:
- Malt (use boiling water to get as much out as you can)
- Spray-malt/brew enhancer/second malt can
- Optional: Crush ½ Campden tablet, add to the fermenter, stir and wait 10 minutes (removes Chlorine)
- Measure and record Specific Gravity (SG)
- Make sure the temperature is in the right range then pour Yeast on top and stir in
- Write down notes of method, ingredients, bittering hops used and target SG for the beer (malt kit should tell you what this is)
- Move fermenter into place
- Fill airlock with boiling water
- Add finishing (aroma) hops to fermenter after about a week - open lid and tip them on top, no need to stir
- Ferment for at least two weeks (this is enough time for some sediment to drop out) and make sure the SG is in the desired range recorded above
- Calculate priming sugar amount (see Homebrew Answers for a wider range of beer styles and select Other to enter a custom CO2 volume):
You will require grams of Dextrose.
- Boil priming sugar with two cups of water then simmer for 10 minutes
- Priming can be done in one of two ways:
- Bottling bucket (preferred method as it ensures the most consistent priming and reduces sediment):
- Sterilise second bucket, tap, airlock and hose for transferring
- Pour priming sugar into second bucket
- Carefully siphon contents from fermenter to second bucket - take care to minimise splashing (which causes oxygenation) and keep the hose inlet a few centimetres above the bottom of the fermenter
- Transfer all the beer into the second bucket, but stop just before you get to the scummy sediment layer
- You can immediately start step 4 below
- If you don't have a second bucket:
- Sterilise brewing spoon
- Pour priming sugar into fermenter and stir gently, trying to mix evenly while avoiding stirring up the sediment
- Wait 30 minutes for the sugar to mix and sediment to settle down again
- Clean work area and sterilise:
- Bottling cane
- Bottle drying rack
- Place bottle caps in a bowl with a little no-rinse steriliser, then pour boiling water over them
- Sterilise bottles, then:
- Fill bottles: leave about 3cm air gap at the top of each bottle (bottling cane does this automatically)
- Immediately place a cap on the bottle after filling
- Cap (once the bottle is covered you can wait a while and cap a number of bottles all at once)
- Label bottles
- Take notes
- Age the bottles at room temperature in a dark place for at least two weeks before drinking (two months is ideal)